Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America's Farmers' Markets 
asked by samoan on November 14, 2006 11:43 AM
In her previous cookbooks Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone and the classic Greens Cookbook, among others, Deborah Madison scored with savory yet sophisticated fare--the kind of food even meat lovers relish. Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America's Farmers' Markets finds Madison shopping those havens of quality, taste, and diversity, and devising recipes based on their seasonally available bounty. Among the 350 recipes--not all vegetarian--fans will immediately recognize the Madison hand in dishes like Soft Tacos with Roasted Green Chiles, Spinach and Green Garlic Soufflé, and Winter Squash "Pancake" with Mozzarella and Sage. There's more to the book, however: "Many people still think that the farmers' market is the place you go to for cheap food," says Madison. More to the point, they're a source for "truly local and therefore truly seasonal [food], quite likely raised by sound sustainable methods and by someone who might become your friend." It's a message most readers will embrace.
The book offers chapters deftly arranged by fruit and vegetable families as they appear in the markets, such as "The Vegetable Fruits of Summer: Eggplants, Tomatoes, and Peppers" and "A Cool Weather Miscellany," which includes recipes such as Sautéed Artichokes with Potatoes and Garlic Chives and a marvelous "essence-of" soup, Elixir of Fresh Peas. Madison also treats unfamiliar fruits and vegetables, presenting the likes of lamb quarters in a soup made with Sonoma Teleme cheese, and sugar loaf chicory simply grilled and dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Recipes for delightful salads like Melon Salad with Thai Basil also appear, as do a selection of pastas and risotto, such as Winter Squash Risotto with Seared Radicchio, and sweets like White Peaches in Lemon Verbena Syrup and Date, Dried Cherry, and Chocolate Nut Torte. With sidebars like Atlanta's All-Organic Market: Late October and color photos throughout of vendors, produce, and many of the dishes, the book offers the perfect match of Madison and the markets. --Arthur Boehm
Reviews
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`Local Flavors' by leading vegetarian cookbook author and teacher, Deborah Madison is quite a bit different from her most famous and critically successful book, `Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone' which I consider a candidate for top ten positioning in anyone's list of cookbooks and easily near the top of your list of vegetarian cookbooks.
As quite loudly proclaimed by the subtitle, this book is really all about regional, seasonal, and organic produce from farmers' markets. As such, it is very close to Jack Bishop's book, `A Year in the Vegetarian Kitchen', as the primary organization of chapters is a cross between the seasons and types of vegetables. This is not quite as awkward as it may seem, as most members of a particular vegetable class, such as the cabbages and the onions typically come into season at about the same time. The book may be either more or less valuable than Bishop's book, depending on how close you live to either a Farmer's Market or a Community Supported Agriculture cooperative. If either is within an hour's drive, this book will be a great resource in making the best of these organizations.
Part of my modest reaction to this book is based on the fact that I live within 10 to 40 minutes drive of seven different permanent or semi-permanent `farmer's market' organizations, and I believe but three of those seven sites' produce comes primarily from things grown by the chap behind the table, or a close family member of the chap behind the table. And, it is precisely this direct contact with the farmer that Madison believes is so valuable to the Farmer's Market experience. Even with these seven locations, the only produce from all these sites together which is truly local is the corn, the apples, the strawberries, some peaches, and some of the tomatoes. Almost all the other produce comes from Florida, California, or South America, with some summer stone fruits from the Carolinas and Georgia. So, almost everything Madison explains about getting the most out of your Farmer's Market experience is wasted on me.
Madison's most important service in this book aside from the seasonally organized recipes is the clarification of what is the value of our patronizing Farmer's Markets. It is definitely not price. I strongly concur on this, as my local corn farmer's stand charges 50% more than my favorite megamart, in spite of the fact that the stand is a mere 35 yards from the cornfields. The real values are from acquiring exquisitely fresh produce (a REALLY big issue with corn and tomatoes) which is, if so advertised, free of artificial pesticides and free of treatment by herbicides or, with chickens, treatment with growth hormones or antibiotics. Additional values accrue from the fact that while the farmer gets about 9% of the sale of the produce at the megamart, they get 100% of the sale at a Farmer's Market, less the fee to rent the stand and the time required to truck in the goods and set up the stand at some ungodly hour of the morning.
The value is also not in the acquisition of the most attractive produce. I often thought that the poor looking produce at farm stands was due to the absence of artificial fertilizer and pesticides. It turns out that the real reason may be due to the fact that the farmer is selling things at the stands that may fall below the standards of his commercial distributors.
I think Madison's second most important contribution to her readers with this book is the advice to plan to stay a fair length of time at the market to get the lay of the land and talk to the vendors and to fellow customers. I really think this is a pretty good measure of how well the producers know their stuff. Nothing turns me off of a store faster than asking a question of a salesperson and they simply have no clue of what you speak, and volunteer no opportunity to speak to the store owner or some other potential expert. This is clearly a sign that this store is not a store or stand with which I want to do business. And, I am often surprised at how few merchants are aware of this fact. Within a block of one another there are three Italian delis in Little Italy in Manhattan with very similar wares. They even look a lot alike. Two are practically empty of customers. The third, DiPalo's, is crowded enough to require you to take a number when you enter the little store. This is because the DiPalo family members behind the counter really know what they are talking about and go out of their way to be sure you get what you want.
Getting back to the book, I will suggest that you take a by on this one unless you are within acceptable driving distance of a genuine Farmer's Market. Many of the recipes and subjects are covered in much greater detail in `Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone' and, when I went to actually make one of the recipes, I found a fairly serious lapse in the instructions which neglected to tell me how to prep an onion for the cooking. If I would have followed directions literally, I would have put an unpeeled onion in a pot of hot olive oil.
On the positive side, I give Ms. Madison good marks for covering eggs and cheese and poultry in addition to the veggies. The bibliography and sources are slanted toward Farmers' Markets, but there is still a fair overlap to `Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone'.
If you are close to a Farmer's Market and fully intend to spend time there OR if you are an inveterate foodie who must have every title by important cookbook authors, then buy this book. Otherwise, buy `Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone' or `The Savory Way'.
As quite loudly proclaimed by the subtitle, this book is really all about regional, seasonal, and organic produce from farmers' markets. As such, it is very close to Jack Bishop's book, `A Year in the Vegetarian Kitchen', as the primary organization of chapters is a cross between the seasons and types of vegetables. This is not quite as awkward as it may seem, as most members of a particular vegetable class, such as the cabbages and the onions typically come into season at about the same time. The book may be either more or less valuable than Bishop's book, depending on how close you live to either a Farmer's Market or a Community Supported Agriculture cooperative. If either is within an hour's drive, this book will be a great resource in making the best of these organizations.
Part of my modest reaction to this book is based on the fact that I live within 10 to 40 minutes drive of seven different permanent or semi-permanent `farmer's market' organizations, and I believe but three of those seven sites' produce comes primarily from things grown by the chap behind the table, or a close family member of the chap behind the table. And, it is precisely this direct contact with the farmer that Madison believes is so valuable to the Farmer's Market experience. Even with these seven locations, the only produce from all these sites together which is truly local is the corn, the apples, the strawberries, some peaches, and some of the tomatoes. Almost all the other produce comes from Florida, California, or South America, with some summer stone fruits from the Carolinas and Georgia. So, almost everything Madison explains about getting the most out of your Farmer's Market experience is wasted on me.
Madison's most important service in this book aside from the seasonally organized recipes is the clarification of what is the value of our patronizing Farmer's Markets. It is definitely not price. I strongly concur on this, as my local corn farmer's stand charges 50% more than my favorite megamart, in spite of the fact that the stand is a mere 35 yards from the cornfields. The real values are from acquiring exquisitely fresh produce (a REALLY big issue with corn and tomatoes) which is, if so advertised, free of artificial pesticides and free of treatment by herbicides or, with chickens, treatment with growth hormones or antibiotics. Additional values accrue from the fact that while the farmer gets about 9% of the sale of the produce at the megamart, they get 100% of the sale at a Farmer's Market, less the fee to rent the stand and the time required to truck in the goods and set up the stand at some ungodly hour of the morning.
The value is also not in the acquisition of the most attractive produce. I often thought that the poor looking produce at farm stands was due to the absence of artificial fertilizer and pesticides. It turns out that the real reason may be due to the fact that the farmer is selling things at the stands that may fall below the standards of his commercial distributors.
I think Madison's second most important contribution to her readers with this book is the advice to plan to stay a fair length of time at the market to get the lay of the land and talk to the vendors and to fellow customers. I really think this is a pretty good measure of how well the producers know their stuff. Nothing turns me off of a store faster than asking a question of a salesperson and they simply have no clue of what you speak, and volunteer no opportunity to speak to the store owner or some other potential expert. This is clearly a sign that this store is not a store or stand with which I want to do business. And, I am often surprised at how few merchants are aware of this fact. Within a block of one another there are three Italian delis in Little Italy in Manhattan with very similar wares. They even look a lot alike. Two are practically empty of customers. The third, DiPalo's, is crowded enough to require you to take a number when you enter the little store. This is because the DiPalo family members behind the counter really know what they are talking about and go out of their way to be sure you get what you want.
Getting back to the book, I will suggest that you take a by on this one unless you are within acceptable driving distance of a genuine Farmer's Market. Many of the recipes and subjects are covered in much greater detail in `Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone' and, when I went to actually make one of the recipes, I found a fairly serious lapse in the instructions which neglected to tell me how to prep an onion for the cooking. If I would have followed directions literally, I would have put an unpeeled onion in a pot of hot olive oil.
On the positive side, I give Ms. Madison good marks for covering eggs and cheese and poultry in addition to the veggies. The bibliography and sources are slanted toward Farmers' Markets, but there is still a fair overlap to `Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone'.
If you are close to a Farmer's Market and fully intend to spend time there OR if you are an inveterate foodie who must have every title by important cookbook authors, then buy this book. Otherwise, buy `Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone' or `The Savory Way'.
reviewed by bricktop on November 28, 2006 2:57 AM
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I bring out this cookbook every week after shopping at the farmers market, and it encouraged us to try unfamiliar looking greens and vegetables. Living in California, none of the ingredients are out of reach, and we find most if not all of the ingredients at our local market and grocery stores.
Unlike some other cookbooks, Crescent Dragonwagon for one, there are no faulty techniques, if you follow her instructions you get flawless results. And after a couple of tries, you can substitute and experiment. Her recipes do tend to be classic french with plenty of butter and other dairy, so as folks who watch their cholesterol, I have substituted olive oil for the butter and tofu for the eggs in some recipes with no ill effects. I would suggest that if you are a serious cook you would have an extensive herb garden of your own anyway, so that finding ingredients like marjoram, sage, lemon thyme and sorrel do not mean a trip to a specialty grocer.
Unlike the Chez Panisse cookbook, this one is suitable for vegetarians to use too, since while it does include recipes for market meats and fish, most veg recipes do not include meat stocks, bacon etc type of flavor enhancers like you find in the Chez Panisse cookbook. As a vegetarian myself, I always hesitate to adapt those wondering whether the results will be bland and missing the oomph when you are rushing to get a meal on the table.
Unlike some other cookbooks, Crescent Dragonwagon for one, there are no faulty techniques, if you follow her instructions you get flawless results. And after a couple of tries, you can substitute and experiment. Her recipes do tend to be classic french with plenty of butter and other dairy, so as folks who watch their cholesterol, I have substituted olive oil for the butter and tofu for the eggs in some recipes with no ill effects. I would suggest that if you are a serious cook you would have an extensive herb garden of your own anyway, so that finding ingredients like marjoram, sage, lemon thyme and sorrel do not mean a trip to a specialty grocer.
Unlike the Chez Panisse cookbook, this one is suitable for vegetarians to use too, since while it does include recipes for market meats and fish, most veg recipes do not include meat stocks, bacon etc type of flavor enhancers like you find in the Chez Panisse cookbook. As a vegetarian myself, I always hesitate to adapt those wondering whether the results will be bland and missing the oomph when you are rushing to get a meal on the table.
reviewed by macfan on November 28, 2006 4:02 PM
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Over the years I have come to rely on Deborah Madison's cookbooks as those where I can make any recipe in the book and the result will be perfect. Purchased when we joined a "Community Supported Agriculture" and began getting a weekly box of more and more unusual vegetables, this book is perfect for understanding certain vegetables: when they are at their best, and how to prepare them. After "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone," no Madison cookbook will ever again seem encyclopedic enough!!
reviewed by james58 on November 28, 2006 6:21 PM
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Deborah Madison's "Local Flavors" hews to her longtime trajectory along the path of encouraging her readers to make use of what's fresh. Of course what's fresh is always better than what's been shipped in, and Madison focuses on this edict with this cookbook chock-full of recipes making use of fresh, fresh, fresh produce from the farmer's market.
The cookbook is handsomely done, with easy recipes and numbered directions (so helpful when you look away and then need to find your place again). While readers on the coasts or in big cities will have no problem finding the ingredients they need, those in smaller or rural areas will have some difficulty. Ingredients that are regularly called for here include palm sugar, blood oranges, lemon verbena, pineapple sage, chantarelles, orange flower water, and more. Still, the recipes are imaginative, the photography sumptuous, and Madison's enthusiasm for her subject positively contagious.
reviewed by csean85 on November 29, 2006 8:21 AM