Land of Plenty: A Treasury of Authentic Sichuan Cooking this question feed

asked by work on November 2, 2006 11:06 PM
Elizabeth David had it easy. All she had to do was eat her way through France and Italy and translate the essence of the encountered cuisines for a ravenous, literate, English-speaking public. Fuschia Dunlop, on the other hand, went to Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan in China, where she ended up the first foreign student enrolled at the Sichuan Institute of Higher Cuisine. That was nearly 10 years ago. After annual return visits and endless research she has produced, in English, a magnificent introduction to the food and foodways of Sichuan. She is in every way the dharma inheritor of Elizabeth David.

You too may start to salivate halfway through the introduction to Dunlop's magnificent Land of Plenty: A Treasury of Authentic Sichuan Cooking. Perhaps it begins when she explains xian, "one of the most beautiful words in the Chinese culinary language." It describes an entire range of flavor and sensation, "the indefinable, delicious taste of fresh meat, poultry, and seafood, the scrumptious flavors of a pure chicken soup..." Before you know it you are running headlong into a world of 23 distinct flavors and 56 cooking methods (they are all listed at the end of the book). Sichuan is the place where "barbarian peppers" met up with a natural cornucopia and a literary cooking tradition stretching back to the fifth century A.D. Innovation with cooking technique and new and challenging ingredients remains a hallmark of Sichuan. After describing basic cutting skills and cooking techniques, Dunlop presents her recipes in chapters that include "Noodles, Dumplings, and Other Street Treats"; "Appetizers"; "Meat"; "Poultry"; "Fish"; "Vegetables and Bean Curd"; "Stocks and Soup"; "Sweet Dishes"; and "Hotpot." Yes, you will find Gong Bao (Kung Pao) Chicken with Peanuts--Gong Bao Ji Ding. It's named after a late 19th-century governor of Sichuan, Ding Baozhen, which brought on the wrath of the Cultural Revolution for its imperial associations. Until rehabilitation, the dish was called "fast-fried chicken cubes" or "chicken cubes with seared chilies."

Land of Plenty is literary food writing at its best, as well as a marvelous invitation to new skills and flavors for the home cook. Read it. Cook it. Eat it. And take pleasure in the emerging career of Fuschia Dunlop, a big new voice in the world of food. --Schuyler Ingle


Reviews

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This is one of the best cookbooks of any kind that I've come across. Dunlop does an excellent job of describing the culture the food comes from, and provides a description of the ingredients and methods as well as easy-to-follow recipes for specific dishes. I'd put this up there with one of the original English-language Chinese cookbooks, "How to Cook and Eat in Chinese" by Buwei Yang Chao that came out 60 years ago.

Highly recommended not just for people interesting in Sichuan or Chinese food, but for cooks who just want an expanded background in how to work with food.
reviewed by linda on November 18, 2006 7:58 AM

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There are no steamed dishes but mostly require wok frying so the recipes aren't the healthiest but they are not that oily either (two teaspoons of oil in the wok and one teaspoon of sesame oil in the sauce for the Kung POW!)

The layout of the book is encouraging and I had no problem reaching for it when I am at a loss over what to cook for dinner. Luckily I have chili peppers and sichuan peppercorn in my larder now so I am well-prepared to tackle these recipes which call for simple ingredients but the resulting flavors are complex and addictive. Once that ginger meets the sichuan pepper infused oil, one can taste the deliciousness of the dish by fragrance alone.

I also understand what Chinese takeout food is all about now.

This is a perfect book and I laugh at Fuschia Dunlop's photo because I think her smile is like my inner smile when I see or think of something good to eat. My only regret with the layout is that the order of the ingredients for the marinade and the sauce are not in the same order so that if I need cornstarch in both liquids, I can use one measuring spoon for two ramekins.

Because of this book, I purchased sichuan peppercorns, my first ever pricey knife, a Krups coffee grinder, more sesame oil, two bottles of Jonesy port and more cutting boards. The lip smacking flavors of Sichuanese cuisine are that motivating.
reviewed by noreason on November 24, 2006 7:41 AM

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Dunlop's book on Sichuan cooking has a nice mix of recipes, technique explanations, ingredient descriptions, and stories of learning to cook in Sichuan province. Now that Sichuan peppercorns are legal again in the USA, and Toban bean paste can be found at many grocery stores, it really is possible to cook authentic Sichuan at home and this is the best guide I have seen. It is by no means a professional guide or authoritative collection of recipes, but rather a good solid beginners guide and reference to the fundamentals of the cuisine. I have tried at least a dozen of the recipes and have had great results so far. Highly recommended.
reviewed by ronmiller on November 26, 2006 7:54 PM

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Having despaired for years about obtaining in the U.S. food as good as I'd eaten in Chengdu, I was quite pleased to come across this book and attempt several of the recipes. But the results have far surpassed my greatest hopes.

Not only were my "twice-cooked pork" and "mapo doufu" pronounced a marvel by my now awe-struck Chinese wife, but Ms. Dunlop has given me the priceless gift of tasting and thinking about Chinese cuisine in a new and more complex way.

If you love Chinese food you MUST buy and read this book. It's that good.
reviewed by glenn11 on November 28, 2006 4:53 PM

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